CHANGING YOUR FACEPLATE IN 30 MINUTES - VERY EASY
Follow the instructions and everything will be fine. I haven't received any information regarding troubles after the tune up since I started selling those plates in 2008. I am myself a poor mechanicien, and I did it smoothly every time!
Just follow step-by-step the 24 slides shown hereunder.
TOOLS YOU NEED
One Allen US 1/8 tool (EU norms works as well) to take off the flyscreen, a wrench size 10 (or 8 for models 2009 or newer) to unmount the gauge, one screwdriver Phillips #1 to open the gauge and two spoons to lift the needles.
Unscrew the wind-shield.
Separate of the power supply unit from the dashboard. For information, I have an alarm on my motor bike and this handling poses any problem, neither during, nor after these operations.
Press on the small latch which clipses the electric unit to the dashboard.
Separate the two parts.
Loosen the 10 # hex nut located on the right.
Loosen the other 10mm hex nut located far behind.
Unscrew completely the last hex nut that holds the small black case in front of on the left. Don't loose the washer.
Lower the case.
Release the dashboard from its support, by initially raising the part where the black case was fixed, otherwise it won't move. For this one in particular, it is preferable to tear the metal axis from the silent-block. The two other axes leave with their silent-blocs.
Everything goes well.
Remove the 7 Phillips screws on the backside of the gauge cluster. Not to touch to both middle ones.
Separate the two halves of the gauge cluster. Put the transparent part in a safe place so it doesn't get scratched.
Try to remove the two needles using your fingers first, by pulling directly up, very straightly. I advise not to turn the needles while pulling them out, because you might loose the “ZERO” reference mark. It will take you lot of patience afterwards to readjust the zero position. If the needdles resists, go to the following stage and do not force with your fingers.
If the needle resists, take two spoons and place the tips of the spoons under the needle base, just around the needle shaft.
Apply even pressure on each spoon, otherwise you might twist the needle shaft. Do the same for the other needle. Very important : apply the same pressure on each spoon!
Withdraw the original dashboard and store it carefully somewhere. The adhesive around the needle holes that held the stock plate is not necessary to keep your new faceplate in place. However you can leave it as it is. If you absolutely want to remove it, warm it up with a hair dryer before removing it. Clean the lens and all other parts from dust.
Wash your hands, especially if you mount a dark or black dashboard. Carefully place the new one. Go over with a soft tissue.
Reinstall the 2 needles again by sliding the metal axis in each hole. Press firmly but do not insert them too deep! First, clip the black electric unit to the dashboard. Turn the key to "ON", and check if both needles do the right checkup, and get back to both ZERO positions.
If you misaligned either needle, adjust them by removing them, and inserting them again with the right position. Try until it works. It might take some time... Do all these operations very gently.
Once both needles are in the correct position, press firmly without turning them. Attention, since the new dashboard is thinner than the old one, do not insert them too deep, otherwise they won't turn at all ! Check again if they rotate correctly, by turning the bikes' key ON.
Reinstall the top half of the cluster, tighten the 7 phillips head screws.
Engage the first two metal axes (the right one, and the back one) inside their silent-blocks, then lower the entire box on the third silent-block, which remained on the bike.
Tighten the 3 hex nuts without exaggeration. Do not forget to fix the small black case. Clip the electric block and cover the junction with the black rubber.
Fix the wind-shield.
Set the time again on your LCD display and go for a ride!